MRA Editors

How to Build Model Railroad Scenery with Beadboard Foam

MRA Editors
Duration:   4  mins

Description

When setting out to build model railroad scenery, there are a number of methods you can use to create the landscape that makes up your layout. For hillsides and mountains, modelers most often opt for wire mesh and plaster molding, but if you think this process takes too long or seems too messy for your taste, you can choose to go a different route.

In certain situations, beadboard foam makes for an excellent alternative to build model railroad scenery, as you can quickly turn sheets of the stuff into bases for hillsides with simple cuts and a coat of paint. Today, we teach you how to build model railroad scenery for your next layout using foam and hot glue.

Simple techniques to build model railroad scenery with foam

The landscape of a model railroad layout doesn’t have to be complex or painstaking to make, it just has to get the job done. To help you construct a solid base the next time you build model railroad scenery, modeler Lou Sassi walks you through the step-by-step process for turning sheets of beadboard foam into towering hillsides.

Lou begins his demonstration on how to build model railroad scenery by talking about the unique benefits of working with foam. This material can be found at your local building supply store and most hobby shops, and it’s easy to manipulate into a range of shapes and sizes.

After explaining what it’s good for, Lou shows you how to create a quick hillside using just a couple pieces of beadboard. To do so, he introduces the tools you’ll need to shape your hill, including a hot wire (if you don’t have one, certain knives work just as well) and hot glue. He also teaches you how to use Sure-Form to fill in any gaps or miscuts–be sure to keep a vacuum close by for all those little bits and pieces. Take advantage of Lou’s expert way to build model railroad scenery, and you won’t ever have to worry about the mess and dry time of plaster!

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A few tears ago, I was introduced to the use of styrofoam and the basic tools necessary to work with this material, which are a SubTerrain Foam Knife, a couple rasps, a putty knife, and they have a material called Foam Putty, which can be used fill irregularities in the styrofoam once you've cut it. Unlike the industrial foams, which give off toxic fumes, the foam that's available from Woodland Scenics is workable in a closed environment with a hot wire cutter. The first step in cutting the foam would be to mark where you want to have your cut. The next step, I will use a hot wire. You just turn the hot wire on, and pass it through the foam slowly. You want to work very slowly, and just pull it through the foam. And we just remove the excess foam, take our next piece of foam, place it approximately where you want it to end up, and in this case, going to just make a small modular section. I will mark the backside of the upper piece of foam with my foam pencil. And this time I will cut the foam with the foam knife. Slice through the foam. You don't have to cut all the way through, just enough that you can snap it. Place it on the edge of the table and snap in half. And we place the second piece of foam on top of our first piece of foam, and again, we just make a mark with our foam knife, and using our hot wire, cut through it. And just cut through and remove your excess. Now we place the second layer of foam onto the first, and we'll use what we had just cut off of the second layer before with our foam knife, will become the top of the hillside. And again, we just mark it with a foam pencil, and using the hot wire, just cut that last piece of material. Don't worry about it being too crooked or not cutting straight, because we can take care of any irregularities that we want to take care of later on. Once everything's cut, you want to glue it together. And Woodland Scenics has come to the rescue once again with some hot glue. This is compatible with the foam material. Just simply flip over each segment that you want to glue, apply some glue to the section. Set your gun aside, flip over the foam. As it cools, it will set up, and your foam sections will be together. Put some more glue on the third section of styrofoam. And place that into position. Now, if you're not happy with the undulations in the ground, you want to straighten something out a little bit, create a indentation somewhere, or just finely work the material, that's what we have our sheer forms for. And I have found that with sheer forms, they do create a bit of a mess, and it's a good idea to have a vacuum cleaner handy with you so you can suck up the material as you're rasping, till you're happy with your surface.
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