Techniques for Resin and Etch

Hello, welcome to a Model Railroad Academy video. In this video, we will paint, assemble, and weather a resin and etch-based kit. This type of kit and the materials in the kit require special attention for cleaning and priming, or the risk is that it ends in catastrophe. Been there, done that. Roll the video. We'll be modeling a Ford TT truck from the 1920s. The kit contains both from resin molded parts and etch-based parts. This kit is from Artitec from the Netherlands. I picked it up in my local hobby store here. The first thing we're gonna do is to trim away the mold burr. Now, molded parts in resin have an invisible layer of release agent all over. This is necessary in production in order to be able to remove the casting from the mold. However, this release agent will also efficiently prevent that the paint sticks onto the mold unless it's removed. The good news is that it's quite easy to remove. I'm just using a toothbrush, soap, and water. I then also carefully wash the etched parts. I prefer painting all of the parts using a solvent-based foundation, consisting from black, brown and balsam turpentine. I have tried a range of different acrylic primers, but most of them do not stick properly to this type of surface, and will come off, for instance, when you're peeling off the masking tape. That is a terrible setback, especially if you're building larger kits. It's though important to blend this primer so thin, so it leaves no mark of the paintbrush. It can of course also be applied using airbrush. Now, with this primer in place, we can securely start to paint the model using our standard acrylic paints. Being a model railroader often means that you only have matte colors, but no worries. You can always add gloss varnish on top. I typically paint the details using a paintbrush, like in this case, the rims, whilst the surface is painted using an airbrush. Here, I'm airbrushing the entire truck body using acrylic black paint, which I thin with airbrush thinner. A piece of balsa wood and sticky rubber is a good aid for these type of jobs. Most cars and trucks at this time, the 1920s or '30s, were black, both inside and outside. The flatbed, however, was made from wood. The etched parts are cut from the frame using a scalpel, bent to shape, and then glued in place using fast-set glue. Advanced painting techniques can be used on a kit like this to simulate corrosion, flaked paint, and frayed paint. This is typically what you will find in premium videos on the same topic. This truck was one of the later builds, and it came with a cab. Just like the paint, a whole range of weathering techniques can be used on a kit like this, but we're staying with putting some gray pastel chalk powder onto the tires. All right, I hope you liked this video about resin and etch-based kit. If you did, consider to get premium membership here on Model Railroad Academy and gain access to the premium videos, where you get more in-depth knowledge about the materials and methods necessary to take your creations to the next level. See you in there.